HYDRANGEA arborescens
            'ANNABELLE'

WHERE TO PLANT ANNABELLE

Annabelle is very versatile. Like most other hydrangeas, it prefers morning sun and afternoon shade or dappled shade all day. Although some books say it does better in heavy shade than other hydrangeas do, I have not found this to be the case. The more morning sun it gets the better it blooms. The blooms will not last as long if they are exposed regularly to hot afternoon sun, but it will not kill the shrub.

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NOTE:
It is often difficult to grow hydrangeas in areas that remain FROST FREE year round. However, Annabelle proves to be quite tolerant of these conditions, judging by these pictures. The photos were sent to me by a person living in Zone 10 - San Francisco. He/she grows Annabelle (as well as macrophylla hydrangeas) in this frost free area.

I have a theory that hydrangeas do well in San Francisco because it is a COOL frost free area. I know that they struggle and do not do well in hot and humid frost free areas such as southern Florida. Does anyone have experience that would prove or disprove this theory?

SUPPORTING HEAVY BLOOM HEADS

Everyone who grows this beautiful hydrangea is aware of a very important challenge. The blooms on Annabelle are so large that they tend to bend to the ground after a rain. This can become a problem so severe that the entire shrub is flattened.

Here are a few tricks one can use to reduce and even eliminate the problem:

1. Plant at least three Annabelle shrubs together - three to four feet apart. As they mature they will support one another somewhat.
   
   
2. Prune plants only sparingly (18"-24" tall after pruning). This will allow the stems to thicken a little each year, becoming stouter and better able to support the other branches and blooms. In addition, without much pruning, the heads will be more plentiful but slightly smaller (not so small that you will be disappointed). The slightly smaller heads will be less likely to droop. If you live in a more northern area, the Annabelle stems may not survive the winter and thus will be new from the ground each year.
   
   (Go to Pruning: Method 2 for basic pruning techniques)
   
   
3. Put a short wire fence around each plant before it puts out new branches in the spring. Garden centers used to sell short (18"), green wire fencing for lining flower beds. I cut these into lengths that would encircle the base of the Annabelle (sort of like a short tomato cage). Then when the Annabelle leafs out, the wire is completely hidden. The shrubs of 'Annabelle' pictured to the right are each surrounded by fencing and the plants have been pruned sparingly during the winter.

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ALWAYS PURCHASE ANNABELLE WHILE IT IS IN BLOOM

WILD vs TRUE ANNABELLLE
I often hear from gardeners whose Annabelle will not fully develop a large bloom. They report that the bloom tends to look like a flat, lacecap type bloom, which was not what they desired. I can only surmise that, unknowingly, they purchased a plant sold as Annabelle that was really a less spectacular type arborescens, closer in shape to the wild types (some of which are beautiful in their own subtle way). This is the reason for purchasing Annabelle (or any hydrangea for that matter) while it is blooming.

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• Planting and Fertilizing
  
  
• Pruning (See Method 2)
  
  
• Choosing the Best Hydrangeas for Your Area.
  
  
• Propagating Hydrangeas
  
  
• Drying Hydrangeas Naturally
  
  
• Drying Hydrangeas with Silica Gel